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Wed Oct 13, 2004
Japan - Day Ten and Eleven (where our protagonist eats more than he should and spends the day on a movie set)
Esashi Fujiwara-no-sato is a recreation of a historical village..something like Colonial Williamsburg perhaps. The Fujiwara clan (3 brothers) ruled most of northern Japan from 1089 to 1189 until they became so rich, the head of the clan Fujiwara Yasuhira incured the wrath of Minamoto Yoritomo, the ruler of Japan at the time, and he ordered the annihilation of the Fujiwara clan and the destruction of Hiraizumi.
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Japan - Day Nine (the Party)
Most of today was slow. Probably just the pause before the running leap but I got alot of reading done. We drove to Hanamaki (south of Morioka) for Chika's grandmother's 88th birthday party. Her 88th is really next year but since she and I were able to come to Japan this year, the entire family made an exception. Im pretty uncomfortable with alot of attention so Chikako had warned me this was as much about us as it was about her grandmother.
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Japan - Day Seven and Eight (a more modern Japan)
Spent alot of Day Seven (Friday) wandering around town and reading. A typhoon is about to hit Japan so we headed out for some walking before the rains hit. I was invited to my old dentist's house for dinner. Didn't have dinner, but did have a wonderful time catching up with them. When I lived here, the insurance system gave me the opportunity to fix some minor dental problems (those of you who oppose Socialism should try living without medical insurance for a while).
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Commerical (some thoughts):
Treated myself to four CDs (and I promised myself I wouldn't).
- Norman Jay's "Journeys by DJ". He founded the Talkin Loud label with Gilles Peterson and was the creator of the Good Times Sound System which was an integral part of the famous London Soul block parties. Funky.
- Plant Life's "The Return of Jack Splash". Any CD with a Mos Def, Cee-Lo, and Vikter Duplaix recommendation on the cover is worth it. Hip-hop, Soul, and a bit Pop..
- Re-enter the Dragon - various artists. This was bought based on the names of the songs, which was a risk but it paid off. Japanese DJs mixing songs influenced by Chinese martial arts films. Pretty eclectic and I still am not sure what I think...
- Baadassss! soundtrack - the film of Melvin Van Peebles experience in making his Blaxploitation films like Sweet Sweetback's Badass Song (directed by his son Mario Van Peebles). Jaw-dropping.
We read alot about what Japan looks like, tastes like, and even sometimes sounds like. But what does Japan smell like? Here is a short list:
Flowers. Wood. Tatami Mats. Grilled Beef. Piss. Car Exhaust. Noodle Soup. Beer.
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Japan - Day Five and Six (Morioka and Ninohe)
A slow 2 days so far. Waking up early (jet lag? sleeping in a strange bed?), I've been reading Quicksilver by Neil Stephenson. It's an entertaining book so far, a historical fictional account of Newton, Leibniz, and others. I love reading on vacation and offer that there may be no better way to spend my time. So this has been nice. We take our time with breakfast and our shower.
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Japan - Day Four (Homeward Bound)
Today was a change of pace for our trip. We arrived late to Chikako's home town and spent the night of Day Three catching up with her parents around the kotatsu. Japanese houses dont really have couches and seats, but instead the family sits around a low table on tatami mats. The table is rigged with a heater and surrounded by what I would call a comforter. You slide your legs undereneath the comforter and the heater keeps them warm. This is an excellent way to stay warm in a japanese house which has no central heat or air. Some of the newer houses also can have heated floors, but most have a kerosene space heater and a kotatsu.
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Japan - Day Three (Kyoto Part 2)
Left the Ryokan early this morning and headed to the train station. Kyoto Station is a huge architectural wonder, but I had no time to notice since we had a full day ahead of us to go see some more temples. Hopped on a bus and headed to the northwest end of the city to see Kinkakuji. This is the Golden Pavilion, a three story pagoda covered in gold foil.
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